Today’s blog is brought to you by Joel & Eunjae.
We are pleased to announce our Serbian Residency has been approved and we are weeks away from moving into our apartment and buying a car. All things that will significantly enhance our life here.
What is the Serbian Obsession you ask?
I will tell you, Serbs love love Hair Salons, Shoes, Cafes, Pharmacies and Gyms (we will discuss gyms in another blog). I am not talking about a passing fancy, it is an obsession as far as we can tell. Novi Sad city center is jam-packed with these businesses and best of all they are independently owned and operated; entrepreneurship is alive and well. You cannot go a single block without finding at least one and likely more! It is an indication that Serbians, particularly young people, care about their appearance from “head (hair) to toe (shoes).” Here’re our observations…
Hair Salons and Barbers
Within walking distance of our apartment, there are numerous hair salons and barbers. Most are busy and business is brisk; Joel even has to make an appointment to get his head shaved (no not really but you know how funny his head looks). Most men have short hair, and women have long gorgeous straight hair. Many women indulge in regular blow dries and brunettes rule Serbia, although we do see a few blondes. Young and mature women are not afraid of flamboyant hair color either. We are talking fire engine red, aqua marine and pale pink, and no, this is not a political or lifestyle statement. Most men keep facial hair tidy (clean shaved or stubbles) and avoid the hideous hipster or braided beards that made me yearn for a sharp pair of scissors. The pictures below are a small sampling of the hair salons within a half kilometer of our flat.
Shoe Stores
There are abundant shoe stores for women, men and children everywhere. So many options from casual to dressy shoes and you really don’t see anyone walking around with old sloppy shoes. I bought several pairs of shoes when we stayed in Novi Sad last year and the year before because the prices are so good and the quality is excellent. It is usual to see men and women sporting stylish shoes and honestly it is refreshing to see people taking pride in their appearance without being pretentious. Most Serbians are tall, leggy (I’m so jealous!), and fit – there are many gyms / fitness centers around. Joel and I are now walking around all the time, just like Serbians.
Bars and Cafes
It’s a cafe culture! Cafes and bars are everywhere and feature a laid-back atmosphere where wait staff are attentive without rushing you (no hovering nor expecting you to leave immediately). One interesting difference is that imported alcohol is lower proof then what we are used to in America. For example, a bottle of Buffalo Trace Bourbon in the US is 102 proof and here it is 80 proof. I can’t get an explanation for why this is but our Serbian friends, who have tried some of the bourbon I brought from the US, seem to think it is too strong / harsh. Serbian wines are delightful hidden gems, but most Serbians prefer Rakija (brandy) or beer. Tipping culture is also very different and I will say for the better. Whereas in the US everyone has their hand out, here tips are generally around 10% for restaurants and you round up for things like taxis. One challenge for us is that smoking is still the norm at restaurants, bars and cafes with no separate section. Fortunately, the cigarettes are not as annoying because they use real tobacco without all the chemistry.
Pharmacies
So many pharmacies (“Apoteka”in Serbian) everywhere! Most pharmacies sell a nice selection of vitamin and mineral supplements, and some even sell comfortable orthopedic shoes. We are told that we can buy all kinds of medicines without prescriptions, with the exception of narcotics and antibiotics. Also, if you need an X-ray, MRI, CAT Scan or Blood Test you don’t need a Doctor’s Order / Prescription. Pharmacies here seem to stand alone with prestigious medicinal vibes, not being part of retail stores selling everything; no CVS for our friends in the States.
Restaurant of the Week – Project 72
An update isn’t complete without a restaurant review. For my Birthday, Eunjae and I went to Project 72 Wine and Deli. What I like about this restaurant is the fusion of fresh game meats with local ingredients. The atmosphere is upscale casual and the wait staff is very good at pairing cocktails and wines with each dish. Always being in a “meat madness type of mood” my appetizer was a Pork Pate with Cracklings and for my main it was fresh duck with pumpkin purée drizzled with a cherry sauce. Never has pork tasted so good spread on a cracker. Eunjae opted for a lighter fare, Slacker!, and had cauliflower soup – yuck! – with fresh river fish. She enjoyed them both and for once I didn’t have to share my food – win win! Dessert was a surprise, we opted for their version of rice pudding, it was good and much more creamy / savory then we expected. Our waiter was disappointed that we didn’t take his recommendation so he brought us an order of homemade walnut biscotti, paired with walnut ice cream, “on the house.” He was right and we ended up eating both desserts. Wines continue to be a surprise in a good way. Not sure why Serbian wines are not available in the US, they should be. We tried a local Savion Blanc that was very well balanced and not overly acidic.
Wrap Up
We have been here for just over a month and continue to really enjoy our experience. As discussed in an earlier post, we rented an amazing flat and have gotten to know Igor and Yelena; the owners. Igor is a wonderful person, who has introduced us to other people and absolutely demonstrates Serbian hospitality. Look for a future blog post where we talk about him and our other friends more.