Welcome to Thorntree River Lodge, an oasis in Zambia located minutes from Victoria Falls. This lodge is spectacular and a nice change of pace from a safari camps. This is a lux hotel with individual bungalows, top-notch service, gourmet meals / cocktails and best of all Rhino! Actual Rhino, not Republican In Name Only (RINO). After waking daily at 5:00 AM, it is so very civilized to wake at 7:00 AM and have a leisurely breakfast. The only issue is the periodic monsoons. We never know when and how long it will rain, just that it will rain and when it does it is epic. The video to the right is a typical shower that lasts anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour.
Thorntree River Lodge is situated along the picturesque banks of Zambia’s Zambezi River, nestled within Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park. From our deck we are regularly serenaded by hippos lurking just under the water. You only see their backs, snout and ears, and they make this interesting sound, kind of like an “Evil Genius Laugh” like you would hear in an Austin Powers movie. At night, we must be escorted to our rooms because there can be, and has been, crocodiles and hippos walking the grounds. We are not even allowed to sit on our deck after dark because the creatures come out and sometimes use the plunge pools next to the bungalows. All part of the adventure of being in Africa amongst the wild animals. Did I mention there are so many cute baby and adult monkeys roaming the grounds?
Dr. Livingstone, I Presume. Victoria Falls
Doctor Livingstone is a legend among explorers and adventurers. During his life, Livingstone undertook three major expeditions into the Heart of Africa. In 1855, Livingstone’s native guides took him to what is now called ‘Victoria Falls’ in honor of Queen Victoria. On successive safaris in Africa, Livingstone’s equipment was lost / stolen and he subsequently lost contact with England due to his letters not being delivered. Presuming Livingstone was dead, the Crowne dispatched a search party, and luckily he was found alive near Lake Tanganyika in October 1871, by another explorer and journalist, Henry Stanley. Upon finding Dr. Livingstone, allegedly uttered those famous words, ‘Dr. Livingstone I presume?’.
Victoria Falls are magnificent and surrounded by lush greenery and span both Zambia and Zimbabwe. So much raw power and the park itself is very well maintained with cobblestone walking paths ringing the falls. Scenic lookout points dot the cliffside, so plenty of opportunities for photos. As you near the falls, you get wet. The force of the water cascading hundreds of feet sends rain into the air that falls gently on the visitors. During the warmer months, you can swim in the Devis and Angels pools; we didn’t swim as the pools were closed due to high water.
Here are some pictures from our visit to the falls. The bottom center picture is the Victoria Falls Bridge that crosses the Zambezi River just below the Victoria Falls, and is built over the Second Gorge of the falls.
The Local Market
We visited a local food and good market, and I can say it was an experience. The market covers several streets and is open air. Vendors sell everything from shoes to dried sardines. I now have a greater appreciation for Limanska pijaca after having visited this site. When we first drove into the market, our guide stopped and started to explain this is where the locals shop for their daily food. One of the ladies in the car wanted to get out and walk, but I could tell by the way our guide hesitated at the request that this was not recommended. I quickly spoke up and suggested we just ride in the truck, the guide looked relieved. After a few minutes everyone else was glad we rode as well. No one was hostile but I to be honest it was not a comfortable feeling being in the truck. Probably just nerves being in a new environment.
Rhinos!
Zambia’s black rhino population was declared extinct in 1998, but thanks to conservation efforts, there are now around 25 black rhinos in North Luangwa National Park, which is home to one of the fastest-growing populations on the continent. We visited the White Rhinos in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, and were told that there are less than a dozen left. The White Rhinos are under constant watch by AK-47 wielding Game Wardens. Sadly, the Game Wardens must be armed to stop poachers.
Arriving at the National Park, the Game Wardens meet you at your vehicle, tell you the rules and then you march in single file to view the Rhinos. We stay 15 ~ 25 meters away from the Rhinos to keep them calm and hopefully avoid them charging if they feel threatened. For all their bulk and size, they are surprisingly quiet when they forage for food. Rhinos eat up to 45 kilograms of grass a day, so they spend most of their time with their mouth to the ground. We got to see them mock fight as a form of play.
Final Thoughts
Thorntree River Lodge spoiled and pampered us, and it was a superlative experience. We have talked with a number of fellow guests who return to this lodge year-after-year, and it is easy to see why. The proximity to Victoria falls, Rhinos and plenty of other game animals this lodge offers it all. The staff’s joy is infectious and they will break out in dance whenever they greet guests. This boundless happiness even captured Eunjae as you can see below (Dancing Queen with Cocktail in Hand).
Outstanding food, service and decor all blend to maximize your enjoyment pleasure. Tomorrow, we head to Zimbabwe and our final two camps.