Welcome back!
I hope you enjoyed the summer and are now ready for the crisp beauty of fall. We just returned from Norway, where we checked off another “bucket list” experience—and it was absolutely worth it! Our long-held dream was to witness the Northern Lights, the ethereal Aurora Borealis, in person. Previous attempts in Alaska were disappointing, but this time we planned carefully, chose wisely—Tromsø, Norway—and spent five unforgettable nights living like nocturnal explorers. Was it worth it? Without question.
Tromsø lies far above the Arctic Circle, bordering Sweden and Finland and not far from Russia. On two of the nights, we even drove across the border into Finland in pursuit of clearer skies. The city itself rests on the water and is utterly charming—filled with cozy bars, inviting restaurants, and creative little shops. Once a humble fishing village, Tromsø has evolved into one of the world’s premier Northern Lights destinations. Its harbor still buzzes with activity, and massive icebreakers regularly dock here thanks to its proximity to the Barents Sea.
And the weather? Completely unpredictable. In a single hour, you can experience sunshine, wind, clouds, rain, hail, and even snow—then do it all over again the next. October temperatures hover just above freezing and dip below at night. Tromsø averages about 1,020 millimeters (40 inches) of snow each year, with the heaviest snowfall between December and February. The snowpack often peaks in April, and in some years has reached depths of up to 240 centimeters (95 inches).
Observing the aurora requires patience—and a bit of luck. Most tours depart around 6:00 p.m. and spend the night chasing clear skies and magnetic activity, often returning as late as 2:30 a.m. These two factors—weather and aurora intensity—are nearly impossible to control. Weather patterns shift constantly, and even the most advanced prediction models are often wrong. Ironically, our two best viewing nights came when the forecast looked poor, while three “high-probability” nights produced nearly nothing at all. If you’re planning your own Northern Lights adventure, give yourself at least four nightsto improve your odds. We were totally jealous of a Peruvian tour group who “hit the jackpot” their first night in Tromsø—and were only there for a single day.
Most excursions involve groups of eight or more people, and the long drives can test your patience. Picture hours in a van, bundled in layers of thermal clothing, with limited space and even fewer restroom stops. Still, everyone we met was friendly and understood that this was all part of the adventure.
Speaking of layers—the gear required to survive those Arctic nights is no joke. I wore insulated boots, thermal underwear with ski pants over them, and at least three top layers beneath my parka. Why so much? Because once you find the aurora, you’ll spend the next hour(s) standing motionless in the freezing dark, completely mesmerized. Between bursts of activity, our guide built a small bonfire—an absolute gift. Sipping hot chocolate and roasting marshmallows under the northern sky felt almost surreal—a touch of warmth in the wild.
Light Chasing
As I mentioned earlier, you drive everywhere in pursuit of the lights. On a typical night we covered about 300 kilometers (190 miles)—often crossing into Finland and, occasionally, brushing the Swedish border. Honestly, I have no idea how the drivers manage it. We’d leave at 6:00 p.m. and return around 2:30 a.m., utterly exhausted. The ride back was always silent, everyone fast asleep. Our days followed a simple rhythm: sleep until 9:30 a.m., have a leisurely breakfast, stroll through town, enjoy a late lunch, and rest before the next pickup.
Our driver wore many hats—cinematographer, fire starter, chef, and host—and somehow managed to keep us warm, fed, and entertained. What surprised us most was that the entire company was run by Estonians, not Norwegians. It felt a bit like visiting Croatia in summer and finding all the restaurants staffed by friendly Serbians. Arbo, our driver and videographer, captured an incredible video during one of the nights; it perfectly illustrates just how fast the aurora shifts and transforms.
If you’re like me, you might assume the aurora is a static glow in the sky—but it’s anything but. It moves, fades, streams, and dances. One moment it’s barely visible, and the next it erupts like a flare from the heavens. Most nights the colors were soft green, but occasionally hints of pink, purple, and blue shimmered through.
And here’s something else: human eyes are terrible at seeing auroras. Unless the activity is strong, it often looks like a pale, misty cloud with a faint green tint. But even a smartphone camera—an iPhone, for example—reveals the full brilliance and color our eyes can’t. That’s not to say you’ll never see it vividly in person; it just depends on the strength of the storm and the atmospheric conditions that night.
Enough talk—let’s get to the pictures. The shots below are a mix of our own photos and a few taken by our driver. If you’re planning to chase the Northern Lights yourself, bring a tripod and practice, practice, practice before you go. Adjusting shutter speed, ISO, and aperture in the freezing dark is definitely not the time to be learning!
Norwegian Food
The food in Tromsø is hearty, filling, and—surprisingly—a bit like Serbian cuisine, if you swapped the pork for reindeer. Yes, Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer really is “what’s for dinner” in Norway—and he’s delicious. The meat is tender, lean, and mildly gamey.
We sampled several local restaurants and especially liked Mors Mat for its authentic, homey vibe and genuinely welcoming staff. The dishes pictured below are typical of what you’ll find in most pubs around town. I enjoyed both, though I thought the reindeer stew could use a little more kick. When I asked the waiter for chili or jalapeño, I nearly caused an international incident. Apparently, this is traditional cuisine, and the only acceptable seasonings are salt and pepper.
Can you imagine these folks visiting Asia, India, Latin America, or the Deep South? They’d have a heart attack!
Final Thoughts
Another wonderful vacation in the books—and we’re so happy we finally saw the Northern Lights. It was truly magical and well worth the time and effort. Now we’re turning our attention to the next adventure: Morocco in December, with stops in Marrakesh, Erg Chigaga, Skoura, and the High Atlas Mountains. Another fascinating destination full of exotic sights, sounds, scents, and flavors awaits.
Happy Halloween to our friends in the U.S.—and save me some candy!